A Mixed bag of thoughts: Sarajevo - Bosnia and Herzegovina

Eternal Flame

I ticked one off on my bucket list. My good friend Bart and I spent four days in Sarajevo, a trip I will always remember.

Sarajevo is the capital of Bosnia-Herzegovina, which gained independence in 1992 after being part of the Republic of Yugoslavia between 1918 and 1992. The original population, called Bosniaks, was ruled by the Ottomans between the 15th and 19th centuries, leading to the introduction of Islam, before briefly becoming part of the Austrian Empire. Today, three main groups of people live together there: Roman Catholics, Orthodox Christians, and Muslims, plus a small minority of Jews. Because of this, it is sometimes called the Jerusalem of Europe.

Town Hall

When the siege of Sarajevo began, I was in my teens, the age when I still played outside with friends every day, but also the age when my curiosity for current affairs first developed, in my case, through reading the newspaper. At that innocent age, I probably didn't fully grasp the horrific scenes unfolding there, but something about it has always lingered, and despite an aversion to violence and crime, a sense of curiosity prevails, compelling me to pursue this topic.

The siege of Sarajevo was the longest in modern history (1992–1996), during which Bosnian Serb forces besieged the capital and shelled it from the surrounding hills with artillery and snipers, aiming for ethnic cleansing. But of course, there’s more to the city than its harrowing history!

Sarajevo is also simply a beautiful, compact city that has something to offer for everyone.

Let’s start with Sarajevo's climate. When we arrived at the end of November, there was a lot of snow, with temperatures around freezing. This is typical of their varied climate, with hot summers (often above 30 degrees Celsius) and cold winters. Spring and autumn are milder and more pleasant making this time of year more popular with travelers.

Now, something completely different: life sometimes throws you off course, and during this trip, there were a few unexpected turns that I won't soon forget. One of them was simply that our taxi driver, who took us from the airport to the hostel, treated us to a local coffee on the way. A small gesture, but we experienced it as incredibly hospitable and warm. This was a feeling we experienced several times during this trip, including at the hostel where we stayed.

The hostel, perfectly located in the city center, is run by Ivan. He joined us at the table after checking in, enjoying a beer in the common area. We got to know each other, received a lot of information, and also chatted about the everyday things we enjoy, like, in our case, live music. Ivan was going to attend a concert by a top rock band that evening at the Cinema Sloga concert hall and checked for us if tickets were still available. There were still a few tickets available, which would be sold at the entrance, so we went there at the opening (7:00 PM) to quickly purchase them and then have dinner nearby before returning at 8:30 PM to catch a piece by the supporting band. The concert was fantastic; we saw Ivan again and chatted with the locals, which wasn't surprising, as we were probably the only non-Bosnians in the audience.

A noteworthy detail: the lead singer of this popular band is Serbian.

The Eternal Flame

On our way to the concert hall, we passed the Eternal Flame, a memorial commemorating the liberation from Nazi occupation during World War II. It was lit on April 6, 1946, exactly one year after liberation, and has burned continuously ever since, except during the years of the siege, when natural gas was scarce.

On day 2, we initially decided to stroll around the city center Stari Grad, which is an incredible mix of Ottoman and Western architecture, but unfortunately also bears many scars from the occupation, and are marked by Sarajevo Roses.

Sarajevo Rose

A Sarajevo Rose can be found at the site of a mortar impact that caused casualties. These impact points have been filled with red paint to commemorate the victims.

A rather unusual monument related to the siege is the Canned Beef Monument. During the siege of the city, the United States primarily dropped food cans that were leftover relics from the Vietnam War. Many of these cans consisted of pork, which Muslims are not allowed to eat, and many of them were up to 20 years past their expiry dates. This rather sad monument is, of course, not considered a tourist attraction, but a symbol for the shortcomings of the humanitarian help and I wanted to share this fact.

Sebilj Fountain

A major attraction of the city is the Sebilj Fountain, an iconic monument originally built in 1753 and rebuilt in its current construction in 1891. There used to be hundreds of these fountains in Sarajevo, providing fresh water for locals and travelers. Sebilj is the only one left. It's also a symbol of hospitality. Legend has it that whoever drinks water from the Sebilj will always return to Sarajevo. Done.

Near the Sebilj Fountain, we decided to take a taxi to a place I absolutely wanted to visit: the Sarajevo Tunnel, also known as the Tunnel of Hope. This tunnel, dug during the siege (1993), played a crucial role in the survival of the city's residents. This 760-meter-long tunnel ran under the city airport and ended in the Kolar family's basement in the liberated territory of Butmir. The airport had been transferred to the UN by agreement between the warring parties and was therefore considered neutral territory. During the siege, the tunnel's existence was kept secret. Its main purpose was to bring weapons and ammunition into Sarajevo, and medicine and food were also smuggled into the city from there.

Back to the unexpected twists in our trip: our taxi driver, a man of about 60 years old who took us to the tunnel, told us that he had helped dig it as a soldier. His longest shift was almost 30 hours of non-stop digging. The men who helped were often given a pack of cigarettes at the end of their shift as compensation. Thanks to their perseverance, it was ready for use within four months. Our taxi driver's words really hit home; I suddenly felt a great deal of awe and compassion for the man who we spoke to as he took us from point A to point B.

After visiting the tunnel, Bart and I decided to take a walk and then return to the city by public transport. Of course, we were aware that we couldn't just walk everywhere, bearing in mind that this region is still littered with landmines. It also took us to a smaller town just outside Sarajevo where time seems to have stood still. Despite this, and despite the fact that they probably never encounter tourists in this area, we were warmly helped and welcomed. I'll never forget the old tram we took from this town to the city center, precisely because it was such an old tram, which certainly had its charms, and because it was also so old, was freezing inside.

We also planned to attend an FK Željezničar Sarajevo football match that evening, but it was cancelled a few hours before kick-off due to snow. We decided to stroll around the city and refuel. That's how we ended up in a restaurant with live musicians, and we discovered that Bosnians are also ‘bon vivants’, used to the good life and who love to sing in company.

Today we have another very interesting thing on the agenda: we'll take the cable car to the mountain range where the 1984 Winter Olympics took place. On the way to the cable car, we'll pass other historical landmarks/ places, which I'll describe shortly.

First stop: the Latin Bridge (Latinski Most), an old Ottoman bridge over the Miljacka River. It's especially famous because it was here that Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated, marking the beginning of World War I. On June 28, the young Bosnian Serb extremist Gavrilo Princip shot and killed Franz Ferdinand, the heir to the Austrian throne. Coincidences play a role here as well. Initially, the assassination attempt on Franz Ferdinand failed. One of Princip's companions threw a grenade at the open car in which Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sophie are being driven, but it missed, and they escaped unhurt.

Place where WWI started

However, despite the advice to call off the procession, Franz Ferdinand insisted on continuing it. Due to a driver's error, their vehicle stopped where Princip had positioned himself after the initial failure. He saw his opportunity and fired two shots from close range, hitting both Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sophie. This sparked the First World War a few weeks later.

Second stop: Sarajevska Pivara (brewery). This brewery dates back to 1864 and was one of the founders of industrial beer production in Bosnia and Herzegovina. During the siege of Sarajevo, the brewery played a crucial role, providing the population with clean drinking water from their natural springs when the water supply was blocked. They also continued brewing beer, which was considered a much-needed morale booster. The adjacent beer hall served as a meeting place; the brewery became a vital lifeline, a symbol of hope.

A little further on, we reached the cable car, a real must-do! The ride alone lasted 10 minutes. The trip there and back is already worth it. Once you're up and outside, you immediately realize that the Winter Olympics were held here. What particularly fascinated us was the 1,300-meter-long bobsled run, a famous abandoned track from the 1984 Winter Olympics, now covered in vibrant graffiti, with eerie, war-scarred concrete curves, offering a mix of Olympic history and poignant reminders of the Siege of Sarajevo. We hiked down along the length of the track and then walked back up enjoying nature at its best. A magnificent place, no other words for it!

Back down with the cable car, we walk past Vijecnica, an imposing and iconic old town hall built in Moorish style. The architect was inspired by the Alhambra in Granada. Built between 1892 and 1896 during the Austro-Hungarian regime, the building served as the town hall until 1949, after which it became the National University Library. It was partially destroyed by the siege, and 90% of the precious book collection in it was also destroyed. Restoration and reconstruction of this magnificent building began in 1996, after the armistice. Another little anecdote about the original construction of this Town Hall. An elderly man named Benderija vehemently refused to sell his property to make way for the new Town Hall. After protracted negotiations, he finally agreed, but only on the condition that his house be moved brick by brick to the other side of the river, which they did. This house, now known as Inat Kuca, or the House of Resistance, now serves as a restaurant, but embodies the spirit of resistance and resilience.

Town Hall

Speaking of restaurants, Bosnian cuisine is certainly delicious, but rather more substantial. Drinking the typical Bosnian coffee is highly recommended; it's also a cultural experience, as the locals really make time for it. By the way, Bosnia and Herzegovina is definitely a budget- friendly destination!

Baklava

Sarajevo also has a great many museums; we visited the one dedicated to crimes against humanity and genocide. Definitely worth it, but also makes for very difficult viewing, so I understand if you skip it. In closing, I'd like to share that I was especially pleasantly surprised by the friendliness and hospitality of the Bosnians!

Their resilience and forgiveness are also characteristic! I am full of admiration when I think about how Ivan, the owner of our hostel, had to be especially careful when crossing the street as a young boy to avoid being hit by a sniper, while I could simultaneously cycle and play football carefree in the streets at that age, or how the taxi driver who took us to the tunnel he helped dig, has now been able to overcome this terrible period in their history without forgetting it, of course. But they have learned to move on and enjoy life to the fullest.

One thing is certain, I will definitely be back!